{"product_id":"flightless-fruit-fly-culture-drosophila-melanogaster","title":"Flightless Fruit Fly Culture (Drosophila melanogaster)","description":"\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFlightless Fruit Fly Cultures (Drosophila melanogaster)\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003eThe first food for the smallest predators. Our flightless fruit fly cultures are packed with live \u003cem\u003eDrosophila melanogaster\u003c\/em\u003e, the tiny, soft-bodied feeder insect relied on by frog keepers, mantis keepers and spider keepers everywhere. These flies have stunted wings and can’t fly, only hop and crawl, so they stay where you put them and are easy for small animals to catch. Each culture is a self-contained, ventilated cup of breeding media that keeps producing new flies for weeks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eChoose your culture\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eAged Culture: ready to feed now.\u003c\/strong\u003e An established culture that’s already producing adult flies, with larvae and pupae coming through behind them. Ideal if you need food straight away, or want flies to start your own cultures immediately.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eStarter Culture: grow your own supply.\u003c\/strong\u003e A freshly seeded culture, with adult flies added to new media. Flies begin emerging in about [10–14] days, so it’s the best value if you’re planning ahead or keeping cultures going on rotation.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat eats flightless fruit flies?\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFroglets and small frogs, including dainty tree frogs and eastern sedge frogs\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eJumping spiders and spiderlings\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePraying mantis nymphs and small mantises\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eBaby scorpions, centipedes and other tiny invertebrates\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eVery young geckos and other hatchling reptiles that need micro-feeders\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFish fry and small insect-eating animals\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eQuick facts\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSpecies:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cem\u003eDrosophila melanogaster\u003c\/em\u003e (flightless)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSize:\u003c\/strong\u003e about 2–3mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLife cycle:\u003c\/strong\u003e about 2–3 weeks from egg to adult at 24°C\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCulture lifespan:\u003c\/strong\u003e produces flies for around 3–4 weeks\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEscape risk:\u003c\/strong\u003e low. They can’t fly, but they can climb and hop.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch3 dir=\"ltr\"\u003eHow to Care for a Fruit Fly Culture\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eKeep cultures at around 22–26°C, out of direct sunlight. Production slows sharply below 18°C, and temperatures above 28°C can stress the culture and cause winged flies to appear.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhere to keep it\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eStore the cup upright, indoors and away from your fruit bowl and kitchen scraps, which attract wild flies and pests.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eKeep a supply going\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eOne culture won’t last forever. Start a new culture every 1–2 weeks, so a fresh one is always coming into production as the old one winds down. Most keepers run two or three at a time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWatch for mites and mould\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eGrain mites and mould are the two most common culture killers. Discard old cultures after about 4 weeks, never reuse old media, and wipe down the shelf where your cultures live. Mould usually means the culture is too cool or too wet.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 dir=\"ltr\"\u003eHow to Feed Fruit Flies to Your Animal\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003col dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTap the cup firmly on a table so the flies drop to the bottom.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eOpen the lid quickly and tip a small number of flies into a cup with a pinch of calcium powder.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSwirl gently to dust them.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTip the dusted flies straight into your enclosure, then close the culture lid quickly.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ol\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003eOffer only what your animal will eat in a day, so uneaten flies don’t wander off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 dir=\"ltr\"\u003eMake Your Own Banana and Oat Fruit Fly Media\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003eOnce your culture is producing, you can use its adult flies to start new cultures at home. This simple banana and oat paste is one of the easiest fruit fly media recipes to make.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eYou’ll need:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e2 very ripe bananas\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAbout 1 cup of rolled oats\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e1 tablespoon of apple cider vinegar (helps slow mould)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA splash of water\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA pinch of baker’s yeast\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA clean, ventilated cup and some climbing material, such as wood wool, a coffee filter or a twist of paper towel\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMethod:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003col dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMash the bananas\u003c\/strong\u003e into a smooth paste.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eStir in the oats and vinegar,\u003c\/strong\u003e adding water a little at a time until you have a thick porridge that doesn’t slide when the cup is tipped.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSpoon 2–3cm into a clean cup\u003c\/strong\u003e and let it cool if you warmed it.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSprinkle a pinch of yeast\u003c\/strong\u003e over the surface to feed the larvae.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eAdd climbing material,\u003c\/strong\u003e pressing it lightly into the media so flies have somewhere to rest and pupae have somewhere to attach.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eTip in 30–50 adult flies\u003c\/strong\u003e from your existing culture, close the lid and write the date on the cup.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ol\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003eAt around 24°C, new flies should start appearing in about two weeks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 dir=\"ltr\"\u003eFruit Fly Culture FAQ\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat’s the difference between an aged and a starter fruit fly culture?\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eAn aged culture is already producing flies and is ready to feed straight away. A starter culture has just been seeded and will begin producing in about [10–14] days.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHow long does a fruit fly culture last?\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eAround 3–4 weeks of production, depending on temperature. Start new cultures every 1–2 weeks for a steady supply.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhy are winged flies appearing in my culture?\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eUsually the culture got too warm (above 28°C), or wild fruit flies got in. Discard it and start fresh from a clean culture.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHow many fruit flies should I feed?\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eOnly what your animal eats in a day. Small frogs and jumping spiders usually need just a few flies per feed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCan fruit flies escape?\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFlightless fruit flies can’t fly, so escapes are rare. Close the lid quickly after feeding and keep cultures upright.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDo I need to dust fruit flies with calcium?\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eYes, for frogs and reptiles. A light dusting of calcium powder helps prevent metabolic bone disease.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePairs well with:\u003c\/strong\u003e Calcium Powder, Calcium Powder + D3, Mantis Enclosure Starter Kit, Dainty Tree Frog (Litoria gracilenta), Northern Queensland Rainbow Jumping Spiders (Cosmophasis micariodes), Springtail Cultures.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003eLive cultures ship Australia-wide on Mondays and Tuesdays (excluding NT and Tasmania), or collect from our Surry Hills store.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Biota Studio","offers":[{"title":"Aged Culture","offer_id":52852073464039,"sku":"Flightless Fruit Fly Culture (Drosophila melanogaster)-1","price":24.99,"currency_code":"AUD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Starter Culture","offer_id":52852073496807,"sku":"Flightless Fruit Fly Culture (Drosophila melanogaster)-2","price":19.99,"currency_code":"AUD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0810\/5014\/0903\/files\/rs_w_600_h_600_2.webp?v=1792161768","url":"https:\/\/www.biotastudio.com.au\/products\/flightless-fruit-fly-culture-drosophila-melanogaster","provider":"Biota Studio","version":"1.0","type":"link"}